Ethan Walker
There are several ways to identify Catholics by their clothing. Firstly, it is important to distinguish between liturgical clothing (vestments) and everyday clothing (streetwear). Vestments are formal religious garments worn by clergy and monks, while streetwear refers to the everyday clothing of religious individuals. Vestments are usually blessed before being worn and are reserved for special occasions, whereas streetwear is not blessed and is worn daily. Catholic vestments include the paenula, a cone-shaped dress with an opening at the apex, and the dalmatic, a loose-fitting robe with open sides and wide sleeves. On the other hand, Catholic streetwear typically includes a simple black shirt with a white Roman collar, which is commonly known as a Catholic collar. Additionally, Catholic women are expected to dress modestly, avoiding clothing that exposes their shoulders, back, or décolletage. At Mass, it is customary for Catholic women to wear chapel veils to cover their hair in the presence of the Eucharist as a sign of respect.
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What You'll Learn
Clerical clothing for Catholic clergy
Clerical clothing is non-liturgical clothing worn exclusively by members of the clergy. It is distinct from vestments in that it is not reserved specifically for use in the liturgy. The practice varies: clerical clothing is sometimes worn under vestments, and sometimes as everyday clothing or streetwear by a priest, minister, or other clergy member.
In modern times, many Christian clergy have adopted the use of a shirt with a clerical collar; but the use of clerical clothing is most commonly among Catholic, Anglican, Oriental Orthodox, and Eastern Orthodox clergy. In the 5th century, clerics were directed to dress according to their profession and should not wear decorated shoes or vestments.
The council of Aachen in 816 specified that, following the teachings of the Church Fathers, clergy should "refrain from excessive and ostentatious dress". In its earliest form, the paenula was a cone-shaped dress with an opening at the apex to admit the head. Because ancient looms were not wide enough to make the complete garment, it was made in several parts sewn together with strips covering the seams. These strips, of contrasting material, developed into the orphrey (embroidery), on which much attention was later lavished.
The inner cassock (or simply, cassock) is a floor-length garment, usually black, worn by all clergy members, monastics, and seminarians. The outer cassock, called a ryasa or exorason, is a large flowing garment worn over the inner cassock by bishops, priests, deacons, and monastics. The headcover normally worn with the cassock is the biretta (for Roman Catholics) or the Canterbury Cap (for Anglicans). In the 19th century, like most men of the time, clergy wore tall silk hats with their outdoor dress, and this remained traditional for bishops and other senior clergy for many years.
The collarino (tab collar) is probably the most common type of shirt and collar among Roman-rite Catholic clergy. It resembles a standard dress shirt but has a standing black collar that is sewn to accommodate a white cloth or soft plastic insert, leaving a small white square at the base of the throat.
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Vestments and habits
Vestments
Vestments are liturgical clothing, distinct from everyday clothing or "streetwear". Vestments are required to be blessed before being worn. Vestments include:
- The chasuble, a cape similar to a poncho, worn with a matching stole.
- The cope, a long, flowing vestment.
- The alb, a long white vestment.
- The amice, a square or oblong, white linen cloth worn around the neck.
- The maniple, originally a handkerchief, worn on the left arm.
- The dalmatic, a loose-fitting robe with open sides and wide sleeves.
- The tunic, a loose gown.
- The surplice, a white outer robe.
Habits
Habits are the everyday clothing of the clergy. Habits include:
- The cassock, a floor-length garment, usually black, worn by all clergy members, monastics, and seminarians.
- The skufia, a soft-sided cap worn by monastics or awarded to clergy as a mark of honour.
- The kamilavka, a stiff hat worn by monastics or awarded to clergy as a mark of honour.
- The apostolnik, a veil worn by nuns, either alone or with a skufia.
- The epanokamelavkion, a veil extending over the back, worn with the kamilavka by all monastics and bishops.
- The zucchetto, biretta, or cappello romano, hats worn depending on circumstance.
- The collarino, a common type of shirt and collar among Roman-rite Catholic clergy, resembling a standard dress shirt but with a standing black collar.
Laity
There is no official dress code for laypeople attending Mass, but there is an unwritten dress code that demands that people are dressed modestly and respectfully. For women, this means avoiding low-cut tops, bare shoulders, bare backs, and see-through clothing. Pants are discouraged, and skirts should be knee-length. Men are encouraged to avoid tank tops, shorts, and tight or form-fitting clothing.
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Dress code for Mass
Although the Catholic Church has no official dress code for Mass, there is an unwritten dress code that demands proper dressing out of respect for the Lord. This means that one should dress modestly and neatly, avoiding clothing that exposes the skin, such as spaghetti straps, plunging necklines, bare shoulders or backs, or see-through fabrics. Pants are generally discouraged for women, but if worn, they should be dress pants rather than jeans. Women are also encouraged to cover their hair with a chapel veil in the presence of the Eucharist.
Ministers, cantors, instrumentalists, choristers, lectors, and extraordinary ministers should be mindful of their dress when administering Holy Communion. Wearing shorts or spaghetti strap tops while serving the Lord is considered disrespectful. According to Catholic tradition, men are expected to remove their hats during religious ceremonies, while women should cover their heads.
The level of formality in attire may vary depending on the parish and the particular Mass. Some individuals choose to dress up for Mass, viewing it as a way to show respect and prepare themselves mentally for the sacred liturgy. However, others believe that dressing casually reflects the message of "come as you are" and prioritises authenticity over pretence. Ultimately, the decision of what to wear to Mass should be guided by virtue, common sense, and piety, recognising that God values one's effort and circumstances over the cost or style of clothing.
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Identifying ranks by colour
The Catholic Church has a distinct system of clerical clothing, with specific colours and styles indicating the rank and order of the wearer. While there is no strict dress code, Catholics are expected to dress modestly and respectfully for Mass.
The most senior figures in the Catholic Church, such as Popes, Cardinals and Patriarchs, generally wear red or white vestments. Cardinals specifically wear scarlet birettas, a type of hat with three or four stiffened corners, symbolising their readiness to act courageously and shed their blood for the Christian faith. Bishops, on the other hand, traditionally wore green vestments, although black cassocks with coloured piping and sashes can also be worn by bishops, cardinals and monsignors.
Monsignors, who are members of the Papal Court, wear purple cassocks, a colour associated with justice, regal majesty and sovereignty in medieval heraldry. This colour also has roots in the Roman Empire, where new dignitaries were vested in purple.
Canons regular, or Black Canons, wear black robes, while the Premonstratensians, or White Canons, wear white. The Dominicans, founded by St. Dominic, wear black robes over white gowns, while the Carmelites, founded in the 12th century, are known as the White Friars due to their white robes. The Franciscans, founded by St. Francis of Assisi, originally wore grey habits, but these were exchanged for brown ones in the 15th century, and they are still known as the Grey Friars.
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History of Catholic clerical clothing
The history of Catholic clerical clothing is a long and complex one, dating back to the early days of Christianity. In the Roman Empire, the clergy wore distinct clothing to set them apart from laypeople, typically made of lightweight, breathable linen with long sleeves and a button-up front. The colour white symbolised purity and holiness. As Christianity spread across Europe, clerical clothing evolved to reflect the culture and fashion of each region and period.
During the Middle Ages, clerical shirts were often made of heavier fabrics like wool and were sometimes embroidered with religious symbols. Canon law and synodal decrees regulated clerical dress, with the Fourth Lateran Council in 1215 mandating that clerics' garments be closed in front and free from excessive length or ornamentation. The wearing of rich dresses, bright colours, and extravagant ornaments was prohibited, with clerics instead adopting more sober and conservative attire.
In the 17th and 18th centuries, clerical clothing became more standardised and formal across Europe. The surplice, a white tunic worn over the cassock, became standard attire, especially in the Anglican Church, and symbolised purity. Hats also became part of formal clerical attire, with the biretta, a square cap with three ridges, favoured by Catholic clergy, while Protestant ministers often wore simpler black caps.
The 19th century saw the introduction of the "Roman collar" to the clerical shirt, a stiff white band standing up around the neck, worn with a black suit or cassock. This style, influenced by the Catholic Church, remains a common way to identify priests today. The 19th century also witnessed the rise of the soutane, a long black robe worn by Catholic priests and bishops, which was designed to be more comfortable and practical than the traditional cassock.
In the 20th century, the Second Vatican Council encouraged a more flexible approach to Catholic clerical attire, leading to simpler and more modern clothing choices, especially during non-liturgical events. Today, Catholic clerical clothing continues to blend traditional and modern styles, with some clergy members choosing vestments that reflect their personal style, cultural background, or beliefs.
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