Grace Thompson
The biretta is a square cap with three or four peaks or horns, sometimes topped with a tuft. It is worn by Catholic clergy, with the three-peaked variety being the most common. The colour of the biretta denotes the wearer's rank: scarlet silk for cardinals, violet silk for bishops, and black merlino for priests, deacons, and seminarians. While the use of the biretta has declined since the Second Vatican Council, it is still considered the proper liturgical headgear for those in Holy Orders. For those interested in making a Catholic biretta, there are several online resources and tutorials available, including patterns and step-by-step instructions for creating this unique headwear.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Shape | Tri-cornered or square-shaped with three or four peaks or "horns" |
| Fabric | Scarlet silk for cardinals, violet silk for bishops, and black merlino for priests, deacons, and seminarians. Black birettas can also be made with wool/cashmere blend fabric. |
| Trim | Silk |
| Tuft | Yes, except for the birette of seminarians and cardinals |
| Piping | Red, gold, or the color of the faculty of study in which the degree was granted |
| Pom | Yes, can be made with red yarn |
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What You'll Learn
Choosing the fabric
The colour and type of fabric used for a biretta hat vary depending on the wearer's rank in the Catholic clergy. The hats are typically made of silk, satin, merlino, polyester, wool, or cashmere.
For cardinals, the fabric colour is scarlet red. A biretta for bishops is made of fuchsia fabric. The hats worn by priests, deacons, and seminarians are black.
At some universities, birettas are given in black silk, while others give them with coloured tufts. The Catholic University of America awards birettas with red tufts and trim, made of velvet. The Pontifical University of Saint Thomas Aquinas gives white birettas, which correspond to the white Dominican habit.
When choosing the fabric for a Catholic biretta hat, it is important to consider the rank of the intended wearer and the colours and fabrics associated with their position.
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Cutting the pattern
To cut the pattern for a Catholic biretta hat, you will need to start with a square piece of fabric. The size of the square will depend on the size of the head that will be wearing the hat. A good rule of thumb is to cut a square that is about 2 inches larger on each side than the head measurement. This will allow for seams and some extra room for comfort.
Once you have your square piece of fabric, you will need to mark the corners that will become the "horns" of the biretta. The biretta is a three-horned or four-horned cap, with the peakless corner worn on the left side of the head. Mark three or four diagonal lines across the square, connecting the corners, to indicate the placement of the horns. The lines should intersect at the centre of the square.
Next, you will need to cut out the shape of the biretta. Cut along the marked lines, stopping about 2 inches from the centre of the square. This will create a "plus sign" shape with a square centre. Be sure to cut carefully and evenly, as the horns should all be the same size and shape.
You will also need to cut a circle for the top of the biretta. The circle should be smaller than the square centre, as it will need to fit inside the peaks of the horns. A good size for the circle is about two-thirds the size of the square. Cut a straight line from the edge of the circle to the centre, creating a Pac-Man-like shape. This will allow the circle to fit around the peaks of the horns.
Finally, you will need to cut a piece of fabric for the brim of the biretta. The brim should be a long, thin rectangle that is about 2-3 inches wider than the size of the head measurement. This will create a band that fits around the base of the hat, providing structure and stability.
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Sewing the fabric
To sew the fabric for a Catholic biretta hat, you will need a few materials. These include fabric, such as a wool/cashmere blend, satin for the lining, and cardboard. You will also need a sewing machine and basic sewing supplies like thread, scissors, and needles.
Begin by cutting out the fabric pieces according to the pattern you have chosen or created. You will need to cut out the main hat piece, the brim, and the trim. If you are adding any additional details like a pom-pom or tuft, you may need additional fabric or yarn. Cut out a piece of cardboard to fit inside the hat to provide structure and stability.
When sewing the fabric pieces together, start by attaching the trim to the bottom edge of the main hat piece. Use a straight stitch and press the seams open when finished. Next, sew the brim to the bottom of the hat, right sides together. Again, use a straight stitch and press the seams downwards towards the brim when finished.
If you are adding a lining, cut out a piece of satin fabric to match the shape of the main hat piece. Sew the lining to the brim, right sides together, using a straight stitch. Leave an opening at the back of the hat to turn the hat right side out. Once the lining is attached, you can turn the hat inside out and hand stitch the opening closed.
Finally, insert the cardboard into the hat to give it structure. If you are adding a pom-pom or tuft, do so now. Hand stitch the pom-pom or tuft to the top of the hat, or create a tassel by wrapping yarn around a piece of cardboard and tying off one end before cutting the loops at the other end and attaching it to the hat.
Your Catholic biretta hat is now complete! You can customize it further by adding additional trim, embroidery, or other decorative elements.
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Adding the trim
After you have cut out and sewn together the main body of the biretta, it's time to add the trim. This will cover the seams and give your hat a finished look. Start by measuring the circumference of the base of your biretta. Cut a strip of satin or grosgrain ribbon that is slightly longer than this measurement. The ribbon should be between 1 and 2 inches (2.5 and 5 cm) wide. Fold over the raw edges of the ribbon to the wrong side, and press with an iron. You can also use a fabric glue to secure the folded edges in place.
Next, pin the ribbon around the base of the biretta, covering the seams where the sides meet the base. If you're using a fabric glue, apply a thin line of glue to the wrong side of the ribbon and press it into place. Start and finish the ribbon at the back of the hat, where it can be discreetly joined together. Make sure the join is not visible from the front of the hat. Stitch the ribbon in place, following the line where the sides and base meet. Use small, neat stitches and match the thread to the colour of the ribbon for a discreet finish.
If you wish to add an additional trim, such as a cord or braid, you can sew this onto the ribbon before attaching it to the hat. Alternatively, you can sew it directly onto the seams of the hat, and then cover the stitches with the ribbon trim. When choosing a trim, consider using a colour that contrasts with the main fabric of the biretta for a striking look. For example, a black biretta with a red trim is a classic and dramatic combination.
Finally, if you want to add a tassel or pom-pom to the top of your biretta, create a small hole in the centre of the hat's peak. You can use a sharp pair of scissors or a knife to make a small 'x' shaped cut. Push the tassel or pom-pom through the hole from the inside of the hat, and then sew it securely in place. Your Catholic biretta is now complete and ready to be worn!
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Finishing touches
The final touches to your biretta will depend on the type of hat you are making and the purpose of the hat. For example, the colour of the biretta will vary depending on the wearer's position in the clergy. Cardinals wear red, bishops wear violet, and priests, deacons, and seminarians wear black.
The number of peaks or "horns" on the hat will also vary depending on the wearer's position and location. Traditionally, the hat has three peaks, with the corner without a peak worn on the left side of the head. However, in Germany, the Netherlands, France, Germany, and Spain, four peaks are the norm. The biretta worn by cardinals does not have a tassel.
You can also add a pom-pom to the top of the hat. The colour of the pom-pom can vary, but red is a popular choice. You can make a pom-pom out of yarn and a plastic pom-pom maker, or you can buy a ready-made one.
If you are making an academic biretta, the colour of the piping will correspond to the wearer's faculty of study. For example, the biretta given by the Catholic University of America to doctors of theology is velvet with a red tuft and trim.
Finally, you may want to line the inside of the hat with a soft fabric such as satin. This will make the hat more comfortable to wear and can add a touch of luxury.
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Frequently asked questions
The biretta is a square cap with three or four peaks or horns, sometimes surmounted by a tuft. It is worn by Christian clergy, especially Roman Catholic clergy, as well as some Lutheran and Anglican clergy.
The materials needed include black fabric, preferably a wool/cashmere blend, satin fabric, red piping bias tape, red yarn for a pom-pom, and a plastic pom-pom maker.
The traditional colour of the biretta varies depending on the wearer's position within the Catholic Church. Cardinals wear scarlet silk birettas, bishops wear violet silk or purple, and priests, deacons, and seminarians wear black merlino birettas.
Yes, there are ready-made birettas available for purchase, or you could consider a Canterbury cap, which is considered a more authentically Anglican alternative to the biretta.
The origins of the biretta are uncertain, but it is mentioned as early as the tenth century. It may have originated from the academic cap of the High Middle Ages, which was soft and square, or from the birrus, a rough cloak with a hood, derived from the Greek word pyrros, meaning flame-coloured.
